Once fully level and sanded, a coat of sanding sealer, light sanding, then another coat of sanding sealer and light sanding. Tape seal the edges and bottom (unless you want color in the cracks and such). Pour a VERY thin coat of epoxy, use a squeegee over the surface to ensure the coat is very thin... you really want this just in the pores and smallest cracks, torch any bubbles, let dry then lightly sand. (If you want color, NOW you can seal the edges and bottom) Another very thin coat of epoxy, filling all the cracks, but barely coating the surface. Torch and sand (sand surface to bare wood if you are coloring cracks). Once all cracks are completely filled level with the surface, you can remove the tape on edges and bottom. Keep doing very thin clear coats until you have no dimples (spots where the epoxy sinks into pores or small cracks), making sure to get edges. If you have stubborn dimples, add a dab of epoxy to just those spots, torch and let dry until completely filled. Once the surface is all smooth, do a final light sanding, then pour a final flood coat. This will give you a beautiful, glass surface. If you are having issues with warping due to moisture fluctuations, sand seal the bottom, and as soon as it is dry, flip and do the top, let dry on small blocks to ensure equal air to top and bottom. Lightly sand both surfaces, then repeat. You may want to do 3 sealer coats if you have lots of cracks or very porous wood. You may also want to do a coat of epoxy on the bottom before finishing top. This turned out beautifully!